Delicious Feast in the Hutong– Qu Lang Yuan
In March, the streets of Beijing are transformed by blooming cherry blossoms that lend the city a tender, enchanting allure. At daybreak, we departed from a bustling avenue to venture down a narrow, timeworn alley in Dongsi 41st Alley—flanked by hutong buildings that subtly fuse tradition with modern accents—while the gentle spring sun embraced all ordinary life. Tucked away within, Qulangyuan discreetly invites passersby via a mysterious, narrow passage; without the modestly embedded storefront sign, it could easily be overlooked. This deliberate concealment only deepens one’s curiosity about the world concealed behind its weathered, gray walls.
A Hidden World of Artistic Splendor at Qulangyuan
On the day of our interview, Qulangyuan’s interior refurbishment had just wrapped up a little over a month earlier, and the spring menu was poised for its debut. Sunlight streamed through the courtyard, imbuing the space with an easy, uplifting ambiance. Until 2013, the venue retained the traditional layout of a Ming–Qing courtyard residence; the renovation thoughtfully preserved select historic elements. Meandering corridors unveil hidden wonders within these hutong structures, where ancient beams and timeworn tiles seem to converse with the present—a dialogue that has earned the space numerous international architectural accolades. Today, the dining area at Qulangyuan, enriched by the infusion of paintings and bespoke tableware, radiates a distinctive cultural spirit. Coupled with a seasonally refreshed menu, it not only delights the palate but also offers an invigorating visual experience.
At the helm today is head chef and restaurant manager Li Zhanxu, who—despite being under thirty—draws upon culinary techniques honed in France to orchestrate Qulangyuan’s dining concept. Ever the wellspring of innovation, she was recently honored with Beijing’s Michelin “Young Chef” award. Reflecting on her first encounter with the venue in 2017, she recalls feeling an instant connection: “While Beijing’s hutongs are typically dominated by a palette of gray, stepping into Qulangyuan reveals a burst of sunlight and greenery—a rare invitation for guests to truly unwind.” Enchanted by Qulangyuan’s one-of-a-kind ambience, where artistic elements merge seamlessly with a deep respect for ingredients and a distinct lifestyle ethos, she sees boundless creative possibilities. “I hope that, through our cuisine, we can eventually elevate Qulangyuan onto the international stage,” she affirms.
Tableware as Canvas: Crafting Edible Art
For Li Zhanxu, cooking is not merely a craft—it is an art form and a unique language of connection. In designing each dish, she champions the use of local ingredients to convey the richness of Chinese culinary heritage, with an unwavering focus on engaging all five senses to transform every meal into a journey of delightful surprises. Before each seasonal menu launch, Li Zhanxu collaborates closely with the restaurant’s founder and team, rigorously refining flavors, textures, tableware, and plating aesthetics. Her meticulous attention to detail even leads her to Jingdezhen, where she meets with local artisans to discuss the design and materiality of custom dining ware, ensuring that tactile and visual beauty imbue each dish. Continuously narrating the charm of each season’s unique flavors and local ingredients through her signature Chinese-French culinary style, she revels in the fusion of Eastern and Western traditions that sparks an instant sense of joy with every bite. “The ingredients we select may not always be the familiar ones, but they must evoke the flavors we cherish. And our cooking process is not bound by the exclusive use of Western or Chinese techniques—when these cultures converge, the most extraordinary sparks fly,” Li Zhanxu explains.
For Li Zhanxu, cuisine embodies a celebration of life’s aesthetics. After more than a decade at its original location, Qulangyuan’s main venue underwent a renovation at the start of the year; a private dining room near the entrance was transformed into an open chef’s counter, fostering a more interactive and communal dining experience. Ever agile in reimagining spatial aesthetics, Qulangyuan expanded its horizons in 2023 with the launch of a second concept—Qulangyuan Tea & Bites—in Sanlitun. This new venue, characterized by a light, wood-inflected design that resonates with younger patrons, features a menu that marries modern culinary techniques with the evocative flavors of the founder’s Huizhou hometown. By blending her signature desserts with the classic dishes of the original Qulangyuan, it has become yet another destination for those seeking innovative gastronomic experiences in Sanlitun.
In recent years, Qulangyuan has consistently earned the Michelin Plate distinction, establishing itself as a singular cultural dining haven within the city. Li Zhanxu attributes this success to relentless daily dedication: “We must manage with unwavering rigor, cherish every facet of our craft, and always honor the trust of our guests.” Much like how Qulangyuan has reinvented itself within the old hutongs, its seamless fusion of culinary mastery and artistic expression continues to invite guests into a rich, multi-sensory feast.
