未完的故事，在演進軸線書寫製錶傳奇
An Unfinished Story: Writing Time Through the Evolution of Watchmaking
時間從不是一條筆直的軸線。在資訊獲取便利的時代，你如何看待腕錶之於生活的價值？對藏家而言，機械錶早已超越時計功能的本質，而是蘊含文化內涵、藝術品味和情感記憶，亦是高端生活的講究態度。談及百達翡麗的魅力，絕非止於價值的增長，而在於凝聚腕間的精湛工藝、雋永設計與歷史源流，一如品牌貫有的優雅氣質，那份內斂深刻、低調氣度才耐人尋味。究竟何種魅力，讓品牌即使走過逾 185 年製錶歲月，依舊能風靡世代、令藏家們趨之若鶩？
In an age where information moves at the speed of light, one might ask: what does a wristwatch mean today? For collectors, a mechanical watch has long transcended its original timekeeping function. It embodies culture, artistry and emotion—an expression of refinement and a discreet form of connoisseurship. The allure of Patek Philippe lies not in investment alone, but in the union of craftsmanship, timeless design and lineage that each creation represents. There is a calm confidence and restraint in its aesthetic—a quality that invites contemplation rather than spectacle. What is it, then, that allows a brand with more than 185 years of history to captivate successive generations of collectors around the world?
➤ Ref. 5328G-001
孕育經典，根源的萌芽
Nurturing Icons: The Origins of a Legacy
百達翡麗是現存唯一由家族擁有的日內瓦獨立鐘錶製造商，至今仍堅持獨立營運和世代傳承。被視為「傳世珍寶」的品牌，源自波蘭流亡貴族 Antoine Norbert de Patek，於 1839 年與製錶師 Franciszek Czapek 創立 Patek, Czapek & Co.。1844 年 Patek 在巴黎工藝博覽會上結識發明免鑰匙上鍊系統的 Jean Adrien Philippe，隔年便邀他赴往日內瓦合作且取得法國專利，成為品牌技術根基。1851年倫敦水晶宮博覽會上，No. 4719 藍色琺瑯鑲鑽玫瑰懷錶深受英國維多利亞女王青睞而購入，自此百達翡麗便於貴族王室、上流名人圈奠定聲望。1854~1858 年間，Patek 赴歐、美推廣，且以書信生動地紀錄航行點滴，建立國際間合作基礎。Patek 不畏艱辛的創業精神與 Jean Adrien Philippe 精細製錶技藝結合，在巴黎和倫敦博覽會上迅速嶄露頭角。
Patek Philippe remains the only Genevan manufacture that is still family-owned and fully independent. Regarded as an heirloom of excellence, the brand traces its roots to the Polish nobleman Antoine Norbert de Patek, who in 1839 founded Patek, Czapek & Cie with watchmaker Franciszek Czapek. At the 1844 Paris Exhibition, Patek met the French horologist Jean Adrien Philippe, inventor of the keyless winding mechanism. Philippe joined the firm the following year, and his patented system became a cornerstone of the company’s technical heritage. At the 1851 Great Exhibition in London’s Crystal Palace, Patek Philippe presented the blue-enamel, diamond-set pendant watch No. 4719, purchased by Queen Victoria—an encounter that secured the brand’s place within royal and aristocratic circles. Between 1854 and 1858, Patek travelled extensively through Europe and America, forging partnerships that would give the company an international perspective. His entrepreneurial spirit, combined with Philippe’s meticulous watchmaking, brought the firm swift acclaim at world fairs in Paris and London.
➤ No. 4719 藍色琺瑯鑲鑽玫瑰懷錶
➤ 1868 年製作瑞士史上首枚鑰匙上鍊女式手鐲腕錶 No. 27368
品牌始終專注於品質而非產量，每枚時計零件皆經手工精飾和測試，且持續研發技術，至今累積已逾 200 項專利。其中，1863 年 Jean Adrien Philippe 發明的滑動發條至今仍是自動上鍊的核心零件 ; 1868 年製作瑞士史上首枚鑰匙上鍊系統女式手鐲腕錶 No. 27368，開啟品牌從懷錶到腕錶的新時代 ; 1910 年“Duc de Regla”懷錶結合大小自鳴與三問報時，能將威斯敏斯特旋律縈繞懷中，使報時功能昇華為音樂藝術是當時的工藝奇蹟，為日後超複雜時計奠定技術基礎。
Ever since, Patek Philippe has remained steadfast in its philosophy: quality over quantity. Each component is hand-finished, inspected and refined—an ongoing pursuit of precision that has yielded more than 200 patents. Among them is the slipping spring devised by Jean Adrien Philippe in 1863, still essential to modern self-winding mechanisms. In 1868, the maison crafted Switzerland’s first wrist-worn timepiece, the key-wound bracelet watch No. 27368, signalling the transition from pocket to wrist. And in 1910, the “Duc de Regla” Grande and Petite Sonnerie Minute Repeater elevated horology to the realm of music, foreshadowing the grand complications that would define the brand’s later masterpieces.
➤ PP Museum 百達翡麗博物館
➤ PP Museum 百達翡麗博物館
➤ Patek Philippe Museum 百達翡麗博物館
➤ 世界時區腕錶 World Time
當工藝美學形成文化符號
When Craft Becomes Culture
1932 年全球經濟蕭條，品牌陷入低潮，由日內瓦錶盤製造商收購挺過艱難時期，被 Stern family 斯特恩家族接掌至今，建設與收購多項重大項目以強化產業結構，穩固品牌傳統工藝基礎。同年經典腕錶 Ref. 96 亮相，爲 Calatrava 系列原型。隔年Graves “Supercomplication” 懷錶問世，是當時最複雜的機械錶，它於 1999 年在紐約以 1100 萬美元拍出，此後確立品牌的文化符號，映照佩戴者的身份與品味。百達翡麗持續創新，1951 年推出 Ref. 2499 萬年曆計時碼錶、Golden Ellipse Ref. 3548 以古典黃金比例為設計藍本、為 150 週年而打造具 33 項複雜功能的經典 Caliber 89 懷錶、Nautilus 金鷹系列具獨特舷窗式設計為首枚運動錶款及 Gondolo 系列酒桶形重現早期裝飾藝術的設計 ; 1997 年問世 Aquanaut 系列，在七年後進一步延伸 Aquanaut Luce 成為時尚女款運動型代表 ; 1999 年 Twenty~4 ® 亮相，此系列於2018年推出自動上鍊回應當代女性的獨立氣質。
The Great Depression of 1932 brought challenges that would ultimately shape Patek Philippe’s identity. That year, the Stern family — owners of the dial manufacturer Cadrans Stern Frères — acquired the company, securing its future and preserving its artisanal integrity. The same year witnessed the debut of the Ref. 96 Calatrava, a design of rare purity that became the archetype of understated elegance. A year later, the Graves Supercomplication, then the most complex portable timepiece ever created, affirmed the brand’s legend — fetching USD 11 million at a 1999 auction and becoming a symbol of refined status and taste. From that foundation, Patek Philippe continued to redefine horological craftsmanship through innovation and artistry: the Gyromax® balance wheel patented in 1951; the Ref. 2499 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph; the Golden Ellipse Ref. 3548, whose proportions were inspired by the golden ratio; and the Calibre 89, created for the maison’s 150th anniversary, a masterwork with 33 complications. In 1976, the Nautilus, with its distinctive porthole-shaped case, defined a new era of the refined sports watch. The Gondolo collection, revived in 1993, echoed Art Deco geometry, while the Aquanaut, introduced in 1997 and re-imagined in 2004 as the Aquanaut Luce, brought a contemporary spirit to women’s watchmaking. The Twenty~4® collection, launched in 1999 and followed by its automatic edition in 2018, translated the maison’s timeless elegance for the modern woman.
➤ 懷錶 Caliber 89
為迎接千禧年，耗時八年研發製成 Star Caliber 2000，結合 21 項複雜功能和 6 項專利；隔年 Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 5002 問世，成為第二枚最複雜功能腕錶。同年百達翡麗博物館落成，成為鐘錶文化的殿堂 ; 品牌之後不停超越自我、先後發表「先進研究計畫」成果，以專利 Silinvar® 矽材質為核心，將輕盈、防磁與高穩定性逐步應用於游絲、擒縱輪與擺輪等關鍵零件 ; 2008 年 Grand Complication Ref. 5207 結合瞬跳萬年曆、三問報時與陀飛輪問世後深受好評，品牌研發的腳步並未停歇，2009 年第三代總裁 Philippe Stern 建立百達翡麗印記（Patek Philippe Seal）制度，同年第四代 Thierry Stern 接任總裁至今，即從研發到售後服務全面推行，確保每枚時計竭力完美。
As the millennium approached, Patek Philippe completed the Star Caliber 2000, uniting 21 complications and six patents, followed by the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 5002, its second-most complicated wristwatch, and the opening of the Patek Philippe Museum, now a sanctuary of horological heritage. Between 2005 and 2017, the brand’s Advanced Research division unveiled a series of revolutionary developments centred on Silinvar®, a proprietary silicon material that is light, anti-magnetic and dimensionally stable. The Ref. 5250 introduced the Silinvar® escape wheel; the Ref. 5350 presented the Spiromax® balance spring; and the Ref. 5450 debuted the Pulsomax® escapement, enhancing efficiency by 15 per cent. These advances marked the dawn of micro-mechanical precision in haute horlogerie. In 2008, the Ref. 5207 Grand Complication — combining an instantaneous perpetual calendar, a minute repeater and a tourbillon — captured the admiration of collectors worldwide. The following year, Philippe Stern, the third-generation president, established the Patek Philippe Seal, a comprehensive benchmark covering creation, precision and after-sales care. His son, Thierry Stern, who assumed leadership in 2009, continues to uphold this philosophy, ensuring that every watch leaving Geneva embodies the maison’s ideal of perfection.
➤ PP Museum 百達翡麗博物館
➤ PP Museum 百達翡麗博物館
經典再造，未完待續
Re-Creating Classics: The Story Continues
2011 年首款自動上鍊三重複雜功能鉑金腕錶 Ref. 5208 亮相。2014 年 Grandmaster Chime Ref. 5175 紀念 175 週年，再度推進報時與機械結構的巔峰 ; 2017 年於 Only Watch 慈善拍賣會推出 Ref. 5208 鈦金屬特別款，以 620 萬瑞郎成交，再次展現品牌技術與稀有材質無懈可擊的魅力。2020 年 PP6 生產大樓啟用，象徵「傳統與創新並進」。2022 年 Ref. 5470P 搭載 1/10 秒單按鈕計時專利表現前瞻製錶精神；2023 年東京鐘錶藝術大展發表 Ref. 5308P 鉑金限量款式，預示新技術走向。2024 年末全新 Cubitus 系列亮相，昇華運動兼容優雅時計面容，以幾何四邊的個性設計引領腕間迷人潮流。
Following the success of the Ref. 5207 Grand Complication—combining a minute repeater, an instantaneous perpetual calendar and a tourbillon—Patek Philippe pursued a deeper synthesis of artistry and technology. In 2011, the Ref. 5550 Advanced Research introduced the Oscillomax® regulating organ, uniting the Pulsomax® escapement, Spiromax® balance spring and GyromaxSi® balance wheel. That same year, the Ref. 5208, the manufacture’s first self-winding triple complication, joined the collection, blending a minute repeater, a monopusher chronograph and an instantaneous perpetual calendar. In 2014, the Grandmaster Chime Ref. 5175 marked the maison’s 175th anniversary; in 2017, the Ref. 5650 Aquanaut Advanced Research presented the compliant mechanism and a refined Spiromax® spring with a tolerance of –1 to +2 seconds per day—accuracy on a par with a tourbillon. That year, the titanium Ref. 5208T-010, created for Only Watch 2017, achieved CHF 6.2 million, underscoring both technical mastery and rarity. The inauguration of the PP6 Manufacture Building in 2020 symbolised the maison’s enduring harmony between tradition and innovation. The Ref. 5470P (2022) introduced a 1/10-second monopusher chronograph; the Ref. 5308P (2023), unveiled at Tokyo’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition, previewed a new generation of grand complications; and in 2024, the Cubitus collection re-interpreted the modern sports watch with geometric poise and discreet elegance.
➤ PP6 生產大樓 Manufacture Building
➤ PP6 生產大樓 Manufacture Building
今年品牌以兩枚新作，一如既往再度詮釋技術與傳承的對話；專為藏家而設的自動上鍊 Ref. 5308G-001，延續 Ref. 5207 與 Ref. 5208 三重複雜功能，新增「追針」雙針計時、秒裝置，複雜度與三問並列，成就品牌首款四重複雜功能腕錶。搭載新機芯 R CHR 27 PS QI 性能提升，冰藍色放射錶盤紋理細節襯托白金製皇室式指針與刻度切面，直徑 42 毫米白金錶殼與鏤空錶耳設計，為厚實金屬結構創造平衡，使繁複機芯更顯輕盈，備藍寶石水晶與白金兩款底蓋替換，深藍鱷魚皮錶帶結合新款白金專利三片式摺疊扣，貫徹舒適佩戴的雅緻風範 ; Ref. 5328G-001 則在 Calatrava 經典中融入八日動力儲備與瞬跳日曆功能，搭載全新手上鍊機芯 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J，結合 Pulsomax® 擒縱系統與 Spiromax® 矽游絲確保長期穩定，外觀延續系列比例 41 毫米白金錶殼，錶側飾以標誌性巴黎飾釘紋（Clous de Paris），漸層藍色錶盤自中央向外逐漸轉為深邃黑，垂直排列的日曆結合了夜光白金數字指針易讀典雅，為提高日常佩戴，備藍色小牛皮織紋與灰啡色顆粒紋兩款快速替換錶帶，可隨日常衣著配帶。這兩枚時計象徵雙軸發展延續既往精神，一如品牌箴言「你未曾真正擁有百達翡麗，只是替下一代保管它。」未完的故事仍在時間軸線上，譜寫超越製錶的極限。
In 2025, two new creations extend this conversation between heritage and progress. The self-winding Ref. 5308G-001, conceived for connoisseurs, builds upon the 5207 and 5208 by introducing a split-seconds chronograph—one of watchmaking’s three most demanding complications—thus becoming the brand’s first quadruple complication wristwatch. Its newly optimised R CHR 27 PS QI calibre drives an ice-blue sunburst dial framed by a 42 mm white-gold case with openworked lugs, supplied with either a sapphire-crystal or a solid white-gold back and paired with a deep-blue alligator strap secured by a patented three-fold clasp. The hand-wound Ref. 5328G-001 Calatrava 8-Day Power Reserve debuts the 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J calibre, featuring a jumping day-date display and eight days of autonomy. Its Pulsomax® escapement and Spiromax® spring ensure enduring stability and precision. The 41 mm white-gold case bears the maison’s signature Clous de Paris hobnail pattern, while a gradient blue-to-black dial with applied numerals conveys quiet sophistication. Two interchangeable calfskin straps—woven blue and grained taupe—allow effortless transition between formal and casual wear. Together, these timepieces embody the brand’s dual trajectory: the relentless pursuit of mechanical excellence and the refinement of everyday elegance. As Patek Philippe’s enduring motto reminds us, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.” The story remains unfinished—time continues to be written through the quiet art of watchmaking.
➤ Ref. 5308G-001
➤ Ref. 5308G-001
➤ Ref. 5328G-001
