胡同藝境的美味盛宴— 曲廊院

三月北京的街道，綻開的櫻花為這座城市帶來一股柔媚的氣息。一早我們從喧鬧大道上，拐進東四十一條胡同裡具年代感的窄巷，兩旁充斥些許現代特色的胡同建築，春陽普照著尋常市井的萬物。隱身其中的曲廊院，低調地憑著一條神祕狹宅的路徑引人入內，若沒有牆面嵌上的店名字樣，恐怕很容易就讓人錯過這裡。正是這般隱蔽的設計，讓人們對這片灰泥色牆體後方的空間感到十分好奇。

In March, the streets of Beijing are transformed by blooming cherry blossoms that lend the city a tender, enchanting allure. At daybreak, we departed from a bustling avenue to venture down a narrow, timeworn alley in Dongsi 41st Alley—flanked by hutong buildings that subtly fuse tradition with modern accents—while the gentle spring sun embraced all ordinary life. Tucked away within, Qulangyuan discreetly invites passersby via a mysterious, narrow passage; without the modestly embedded storefront sign, it could easily be overlooked. This deliberate concealment only deepens one’s curiosity about the world concealed behind its weathered, gray walls.

現在的當家主廚兼餐廳負責人李展旭，以不到三十歲的年齡，結合法國習得的廚藝，肩負起曲廊院的餐飲規劃。持續為這間餐廳帶來創意的她，今年成為北京米其林榜單「年輕廚師」大獎得主。談起接手曲廊院的管理，她於2017年曾造訪此處，便與這間餐廳結下特別的緣分，「北京胡同以灰色為主，但進來曲廊院有陽光、綠植，可以讓客人享受很 chill 的時間，是很難得的事。」她分享道。看見曲廊院擁有獨一無二的環境，結合藝文元素的注入，以尊重食材為前提，傳遞飲食生活風格，因此這裡擁有延伸各種創意的可能性，「期望未來能透過料理帶領曲廊院登上國際的舞台。」李展旭說。

At the helm today is head chef and restaurant manager Li Zhanxu, who—despite being under thirty—draws upon culinary techniques honed in France to orchestrate Qulangyuan’s dining concept. Ever the wellspring of innovation, she was recently honored with Beijing’s Michelin “Young Chef” award. Reflecting on her first encounter with the venue in 2017, she recalls feeling an instant connection: “While Beijing’s hutongs are typically dominated by a palette of gray, stepping into Qulangyuan reveals a burst of sunlight and greenery—a rare invitation for guests to truly unwind.” Enchanted by Qulangyuan’s one-of-a-kind ambience, where artistic elements merge seamlessly with a deep respect for ingredients and a distinct lifestyle ethos, she sees boundless creative possibilities. “I hope that, through our cuisine, we can eventually elevate Qulangyuan onto the international stage,” she affirms.

器皿即畫布，以食材繪製美食藝術

Tableware as Canvas: Crafting Edible Art

料理如同廚師的藝術創作，也是與人交流的獨特話語。李展旭規劃每道料理時，皆以本土食材傳遞中國飲食文化，她特別重視以五感體驗，為用餐過程創造充滿驚喜的感官之旅。每季菜單推出前，李展旭會與餐廳創辦人、團隊反覆討論口感、風味、器皿和擺盤美學。重視細節的她，也親自前往景德鎮與當地創作者討論製作餐食器皿的樣式與質地，希望透過觸感、美學為料理帶來更深刻的體驗。持續以中式法餐敘說每季特色風味、在地食材的迷人，讓中、法文化的混搭能成為入口瞬間的幸福感，也是她不斷投入研究且熱愛的事情，「食材的找尋不見得是大家熟悉的食材，但一定要做出熟悉的口味！烹調過程也不拘泥限定使用西式或中式的刀具，讓中、西文化結合，就可以碰撞出更好的火花。」李展旭分享。

For Li Zhanxu, cooking is not merely a craft—it is an art form and a unique language of connection. In designing each dish, she champions the use of local ingredients to convey the richness of Chinese culinary heritage, with an unwavering focus on engaging all five senses to transform every meal into a journey of delightful surprises. Before each seasonal menu launch, Li Zhanxu collaborates closely with the restaurant’s founder and team, rigorously refining flavors, textures, tableware, and plating aesthetics. Her meticulous attention to detail even leads her to Jingdezhen, where she meets with local artisans to discuss the design and materiality of custom dining ware, ensuring that tactile and visual beauty imbue each dish. Continuously narrating the charm of each season’s unique flavors and local ingredients through her signature Chinese-French culinary style, she revels in the fusion of Eastern and Western traditions that sparks an instant sense of joy with every bite. “The ingredients we select may not always be the familiar ones, but they must evoke the flavors we cherish. And our cooking process is not bound by the exclusive use of Western or Chinese techniques—when these cultures converge, the most extraordinary sparks fly,” Li Zhanxu explains.

料理，對於李展旭而言，是各種生活美學的呈現。成立十餘年的曲廊院本館在年初翻修後，原先鄰近門口的包廂搖身一變成為板前空間，提供開放和更多互動的用餐氛圍和體驗。對空間美學有著靈活策畫力的曲廊院，2023年在三里屯商場開設第二個據點──曲廊院茶食，同時也提供她發揮的另一個舞台，空間則以輕盈、木質的空間設計，貼近年輕人的喜好，餐點以現代烹飪手法融合創辦人家鄉徽州的味道，結合她擅長製作的甜品和曲廊院本館的經典菜，為三里屯再添體驗創意料理的好去處。

For Li Zhanxu, cuisine embodies a celebration of life’s aesthetics. After more than a decade at its original location, Qulangyuan’s main venue underwent a renovation at the start of the year; a private dining room near the entrance was transformed into an open chef’s counter, fostering a more interactive and communal dining experience. Ever agile in reimagining spatial aesthetics, Qulangyuan expanded its horizons in 2023 with the launch of a second concept—Qulangyuan Tea & Bites—in Sanlitun. This new venue, characterized by a light, wood-inflected design that resonates with younger patrons, features a menu that marries modern culinary techniques with the evocative flavors of the founder’s Huizhou hometown. By blending her signature desserts with the classic dishes of the original Qulangyuan, it has become yet another destination for those seeking innovative gastronomic experiences in Sanlitun.

如今曲廊院連續多年獲得米其林餐盤推薦，成為城市中獨樹一格的人文餐飲空間，李展旭認為這樣的佳績正是來自於每日的努力，「要很嚴格的管理、也要熱愛正在做的事，並且對得起造訪這裡的客人。」正如同曲廊院在舊胡同中開啟的新場域，料理與藝術交織的美學，也將持續引領人們沉浸於豐富的感官饗宴。

In recent years, Qulangyuan has consistently earned the Michelin Plate distinction, establishing itself as a singular cultural dining haven within the city. Li Zhanxu attributes this success to relentless daily dedication: “We must manage with unwavering rigor, cherish every facet of our craft, and always honor the trust of our guests.” Much like how Qulangyuan has reinvented itself within the old hutongs, its seamless fusion of culinary mastery and artistic expression continues to invite guests into a rich, multi-sensory feast.

Qu Lang Yuan